A camera without power is just an ornament, and a flat battery has ended more photo outings than any broken lens. The good news is that camera batteries are simple to understand and easy to look after. A few habits about charging, storage, cold weather and travel will keep you shooting all day, help your batteries last for years, and keep you safe.
This guide explains how the rechargeable batteries in most cameras behave, how to get more pictures from each charge, how many spares to carry, how to cope with cold and heat, how to travel with batteries, and what to know about chargers, compatible batteries and the small cells inside flashes and film cameras.
How camera batteries work
Most digital cameras run on a rechargeable lithium-ion battery shaped to fit that camera. Lithium-ion batteries pack a lot of energy into a small, light block, hold their charge for weeks when not in use, and can be topped up at any time without harm. They are the same family of battery used in phones and laptops.
Inside, a lithium-ion battery is a chemical reaction in a sealed case. Each charge and discharge wears it very slightly, so over hundreds of cycles the battery slowly holds less energy. Heat speeds that wear; gentle use slows it. A well-treated battery can serve for many years, while one that is regularly left in a hot car or run completely flat will fade much sooner.
Many batteries also contain a tiny chip that reports their charge to the camera. That is why your camera can show a percentage or a set of bars, and why some cameras refuse batteries they do not recognize.
How long a charge lasts
Camera makers publish a number of shots per charge, measured under standard test conditions. Treat it as a rough guide. Real life can be better or worse depending on how you shoot.
- Viewfinder type matters. Cameras with an optical viewfinder use very little power while you compose, so they often get many more shots per charge. Mirrorless cameras power a sensor and a screen or electronic viewfinder the whole time they are on. Mirrorless vs DSLR explains the trade-offs.
- Screens use power. A bright rear screen, long image review and constant live view all drain the battery.
- Stabilization and autofocus use power. Continuous autofocus and image stabilization are always working while the camera is ready.
- Video uses a great deal. Recording video, especially at high resolutions, drains a battery far faster than stills.
- Wireless connections use power. Bluetooth, wireless transfer and location features keep radios running in the background.
- Cold reduces capacity. On a freezing day, a battery may give only part of its usual number of shots.
After a few outings you will have a feel for how many pictures, or how many hours, your battery gives in the way you shoot. That knowledge is worth more than any published figure.
Getting more pictures from every charge
Small changes add up. None of these will harm your photography, and together they can stretch a battery a long way.
- Shorten image review. Set review to a second or two, or off, and check pictures when you choose to.
- Lower screen brightness a little. A middle setting is easier on the battery and more honest about exposure.
- Use the viewfinder. On many cameras it draws less power than the large rear screen.
- Set a sensible sleep time. Let the camera go to sleep after a short pause. A half press of the shutter wakes it instantly.
- Turn off wireless features you are not using. Switch them on only when you need to transfer.
- Turn the camera off between scenes. On long walks, switching off between subjects saves real power.
- Avoid constant autofocus when it is not needed. Single-shot focus uses less energy than continuous tracking.
The settings for most of these live in your camera’s menus. The camera menus guide explains which ones are worth changing first.
How many spares to carry
One spare battery is the single most useful accessory most photographers can own. Two make sense for long days, travel, video, cold weather or events where you cannot stop to charge.
- Label your batteries. A small number or letter on each one lets you rotate them evenly and spot one that is fading.
- Know which is charged. Many battery covers can be fitted one way round for charged and the other for flat, or you can keep charged batteries in one pocket and spent ones in another.
- Protect the contacts. Keep spares in their plastic covers or a small case. Loose batteries touching keys or coins can short circuit, which is a real safety risk.
- Charge everything the night before. Make it part of packing your bag.
The guide to essential camera accessories puts spare batteries in context with memory cards, filters and the rest of a beginner kit.
Packing for a long day away from power? Hiking and backpacking photography covers keeping gear light and charged on the trail.
Charging well
Lithium-ion batteries are forgiving, but a few habits help them last.
- Top up whenever you like. These batteries have no memory effect, so partial charges do no harm.
- Avoid running them completely flat often. An occasional empty battery is fine, but regularly draining to nothing wears it faster.
- Charge at room temperature. Charging a very cold or very hot battery stresses it. Let a cold battery warm up first.
- Use the right charger. The charger that came with the camera, or a well-made equivalent designed for that battery, is the safest choice.
- Charging in the camera. Many cameras can charge their battery through a USB cable, sometimes even while running. It is convenient for travel, but a separate charger lets you charge one battery while shooting with another.
- Do not leave batteries charging unattended for days. Modern chargers stop when the battery is full, but sensible caution with any lithium battery is wise.
Cold weather
Cold slows the chemical reaction inside a battery, so it delivers less power. On a freezing morning a fully charged battery can suddenly report empty. The energy is not lost; it is simply unavailable until the battery warms up.
- Keep spares warm. Carry them in an inside pocket close to your body, not in an outer pocket or the camera bag.
- Swap and rewarm. When the camera battery flags, swap it for a warm spare and put the cold one in your pocket. It will often come back to life.
- Expect fewer shots. Carry more spares than usual for winter outings, night skies and long exposures.
- Mind condensation. Bringing a cold camera into a warm room can cause moisture to form inside. Put it in a sealed bag before you come indoors and let it warm slowly.
Cold weather has other surprises for cameras and photographers. Winter photography covers snow exposure, condensation and keeping your hands working, and astrophotography has tips for long, cold nights.
Heat, storage and battery life
Heat is the enemy of lithium batteries. It permanently reduces their capacity and, in extreme cases, makes them unsafe.
- Never leave batteries in a hot car, on a sunny dashboard or in direct sun on a beach.
- Store spare batteries partly charged if you will not use them for a long time. Around half full is ideal for storage. A full battery stored hot ages fastest.
- Store in a cool, dry place. A drawer at room temperature is fine. Avoid damp basements and hot attics.
- Remove batteries from cameras stored for months. Some cameras draw a tiny current even when off, which can drain a battery completely.
- Check stored batteries occasionally and top them up if they have dropped low.
When to retire a battery
Batteries fade gradually. Some cameras show a battery health or age reading in a menu. Retire a battery if it gives far fewer shots than it used to, if it dies suddenly with charge showing, or if it gets unusually hot while charging. If a battery ever looks swollen, puffy or damaged, stop using it at once, keep it away from anything flammable and take it to a battery recycling point. Never throw lithium batteries in household rubbish; many places have collection points at shops or recycling centers.
Traveling with batteries
Lithium batteries are allowed on most flights, with some important rules that vary between airlines and countries. Always check the rules for your journey, but these principles are widely shared.
- Spare batteries go in hand luggage, not in checked bags. A battery fitted in a camera is usually fine in either, but many travelers keep cameras in hand luggage anyway.
- Protect the terminals. Use the plastic covers or a battery case, or tape over the contacts.
- Large batteries and power banks may have size limits. Ordinary camera batteries are well within typical limits.
- Bring the right plugs. Most camera chargers accept a range of voltages, but you may need a plug adapter. USB charging can simplify things.
- Charge when you can. On trips with patchy power, top up every battery whenever you find an outlet.
For more on traveling with gear, travel photography covers packing and the road.
Battery grips and external power
When a single battery is not enough, there are two ways to keep a camera running much longer.
- Battery grips attach to the base of some cameras and hold one or two extra batteries. They roughly double the shooting time and often add a second shutter button for vertical pictures, which makes portrait-orientation shooting more comfortable. The trade-off is extra size and weight, so many people fit a grip for long events and remove it for travel.
- Dummy batteries and adapters sit in the battery compartment and connect by cable to mains power or a large external battery. They suit studio work, long time-lapses and video, where swapping batteries would interrupt the recording.
- USB power can run some cameras directly from a power bank. Check whether your camera supports powering while shooting, not only charging while switched off.
Video makes the biggest demands of all. Long clips also warm the camera, which in turn warms the battery and can shorten recording time. If you are starting out with video, video for photographers covers power and heat along with settings.
Planning a long night under the stars on one battery? Astrophotography covers power, cold and long exposures.
Compatible batteries and chargers
Alongside the batteries sold by camera makers, many independent companies make compatible batteries and chargers. Some are excellent; some are poor; a few are counterfeits that look like the genuine article.
- Buy from reputable sellers. Unusually cheap batteries that look exactly like the original are a warning sign.
- Look for protection circuits and clear safety markings.
- Expect some limits. Some compatible batteries do not report charge accurately or are refused by certain cameras after updates.
- Keep at least one genuine battery as a reliable reference.
Flash, film camera and other batteries
Not every battery in a photographer’s bag is a camera battery.
- Flashes often run on standard AA cells. Rechargeable nickel metal hydride AAs are the usual choice: they recycle the flash quickly and save money over time. Keep sets together and charge them as a group. Some flashes use their own lithium packs instead. Flash photography for beginners explains recycle time and power.
- Film cameras often use small button cells or compact lithium batteries for the light meter, the shutter or the motor. Many fully mechanical cameras still shoot without one, but the meter will not work. Carry a spare; these batteries can be hard to find on the road. Choosing your first film camera notes which cameras need batteries.
- Remotes, triggers and lights each have their own batteries. Check them before a shoot.
- Power banks can recharge cameras that support USB charging, and some cameras can run directly from them for time-lapse or long video.
Common mistakes
- Owning only one battery. A single spare prevents most disappointments.
- Carrying spares loose. Uncovered contacts can short circuit against metal.
- Keeping spares cold in winter. Store them close to your body.
- Leaving batteries in hot cars. Heat permanently shortens their life.
- Storing batteries full for months. Partial charge and cool storage is kinder.
- Using a swollen battery. Retire it safely, immediately.
- Packing spares in checked luggage. Keep them in hand luggage.
- Forgetting the film camera’s meter cell. A tiny, dead battery can stop a whole trip of film.
Try this: a 10-minute battery check
- Minutes 1 to 2: Gather every battery you own for cameras, flashes and remotes. Label each one.
- Minutes 3 to 4: Check each battery’s charge and, if your camera offers it, its health reading. Note any that seem tired.
- Minutes 5 to 6: Open your camera menus and shorten image review, set the sleep timer and turn off unused wireless features.
- Minutes 7 to 8: Put covers on every spare and find a small case or pouch for them.
- Minutes 9 to 10: Put the tired batteries on charge and decide where spares will live in your bag and your coat.
On your next outing, count how many shots you get from one charge. Now you know your real number.
Frequently asked questions
Should I let my camera battery run flat before charging?
No. Lithium-ion batteries prefer partial charges and can be topped up at any time.
Why does my battery die so quickly in the cold?
Cold slows the chemistry inside, so less power is available. Warm the battery in a pocket and it often recovers.
Can I leave the battery in the camera?
For everyday use, yes. If you will not use the camera for months, remove the battery and store it partly charged.
Are compatible batteries safe?
Well-made ones from reputable sellers generally are. Avoid very cheap copies and anything without clear safety information.
Can I take camera batteries on a plane?
Generally yes, with spares in hand luggage and the contacts covered. Check the rules for your airline and route.
How many spare batteries do I need?
One is enough for most days. Carry two or more for travel, video, events and cold weather.
Why does my camera say the battery is empty when it was just charged?
Cold, a worn battery or dirty contacts are the usual causes. Warm the battery, wipe the contacts gently with a dry cloth and try again. If a fully charged battery still dies quickly, it may be near the end of its life.
For terms such as live view, image stabilization and recycle time, see the photography glossary.